Wednesday, October 4, 2017

Glass Color Testing: CiM 553 Poolside, 315 Buttermilk and Monarch 216

Three more CiM colors to chat about today! I used these three together, for a nice autumn contrast.

First up we have a pale, creamy opaque color called Buttermilk. This color is
so pale you might almost mistake it for white until you put it next to white. Then you can see the creamy yellow undertones. It's kind of like an eggshell with just a tiny hint of yellow if you strike it right.

Buttermilk is pretty well-behaved, but will spread a little bit if you don't cover it completely and carefully. It's not too stiff, but not at all soupy like other pale opaque cream colors tend to be. It also wasn't shocky, which was really nice.

Buttermilk might technically be a striking color - I did notice that it would blush slightly yellow when I pulled the sample petal, but honestly, that goes away when working the glass with other colors. I think it might streak a little when used as a sculptural base, but that's it as far as striking goes.

I like Buttermilk as a base for amber shades, but I probably will stick with the cooler/less yellow cream colors for layering browns and creams. Also, this color is too light to substitute for Opal Yellow or Painted Hills.

Next we have Monarch - a lovely striking yellow/orange opaque. Monarch is a striking color that goes a bit more yellow when worked - depending on whether it's encased or left as a base. In the rod, it's decidedly more orange and bright, but as you work it it transforms into a more subtle shade of orangy yellow. I just love how it brightened the amber I used with it.

Monarch is a really easy glass - no shocking, nice consistency.

 What I did notice was that I got a reaction when layering Monarch with Buttermilk and some transparent ambers (Indian Summer and Medium Topaz Effetre). I am unsure which color is responsible for the devit lines I got surrounding the melted in petals on some of these beads. I decided they were pretty, though.

When I encased Monarch it had no spreading issues, so I think any spreading would be more due to whatever transparent glass might react with it. This might be worth exploring a little further.

Last, we have a contrasting color - a gorgeous transparent medium teal called Poolside.

Poolside is a gorgeous shade that is lighter, greener and more vivid than the rest of the teals in the 104 palette. I think it goes perfectly on top of Quetzal, as it matches the tonality really well.

I had no bubbling issues with this color, but as usual if this shade of teal scums up on you, you can likely melt it off by gently continuing to heat your gather. The consistency of this glass is great - it melted smoothly and stayed stable.

The following beads were made with all three new colors, plus Quetzal, Indian Summer, Medium Topaz and Double Helix Helios.








Thursday, August 24, 2017

Glass Testing: CiM 626 Enchanted and 627 Rapunzel - Plus a Comparison of Lavender Color Shifts!

Next in line for new CiM color tests are two shades of lavender called Enchanted and Rapunzel. Plus, since there are so many shades of lavender glass out these days, I decided to do a couple of comparison shots of the ones I happen to have on hand. Most of these are CiM, with a couple of Effetre thrown in for kicks. This is mostly just to show differences in color shifting, since they all have similar properties. More on that later. First, the newbies!


Rapunzel is the opaque lavender - CiM created this to be an opaque version of their color Crocus, an opal lavender.

Rapunzel is a sweet shade that is just a little bit more pink and a touch brighter than the other opaque lavender CiM has called Heffalump. I would also say that Rapunzel is a touch more dense - meaning it's more opaque and tends to hold it's color without going as "ghostly" as the Heffalump does. We're not approaching the translucence of an opal color yet, but any lavender I have ever worked with is less dense than, say, the chalkiness of the pale opaque greens like Dirty Martini. However, Rapunzel is the densest of any opaque lavender I have worked with.  That makes it really wonderful for layering with transparent purples and pinks!
Left to right - Crocus, Effetre Lavender, Rapunzel

Plain, encased in clear and Enchanted
The consistency of this glass when melting is really nice. No pitting, shocking, or scumming. It also encases quite well without too much bleeding or feathering - and keeps its color under encasing pretty well.

I did notice that when you put a metallic glass on top of Rapunzel and reduce, the lavender reduces a little as well, and you can see a hint of pinkish-greyish haze on the lavender in some places. You can see this in some of the beads below.

Like other lavender shades, Rapunzel will color shift under different kinds of light. Instead of going more bluish like Heffalump and Effetre Lavender, Rapunzel actually washes out a little more on the pink side. In sunlight, the lavender is more pronounced.

I am really happy CiM came out with a more dense lavender - I'll be buying a bunch of this when it comes out - hopefully it's not too terribly expensive!


Next we have the transparent lavender shade Enchanted - another in a long line of very similar shades of lavender! I think for the most part that CiM tries melting the same lavender over and over, and they just get varied levels of saturation and color shifting properties, so they have to use different names for all the variations. That's cool with me - I love every one of them!

For the most part, Enchanted behaves very similarly when melted as its counterparts. A nice viscosity, not much in the way of scumming or bubbling, no shocking, and layers very well.  Not too stiff, either, which is very nice!

Enchanted sits pretty much in the middle when it comes to saturation. Here's a pic of the lavenders I have on hand, under reveal bulbs that show true color. (Some of these are discontinued colors, fyi.)You can see that Enchanted is about the same saturation as the colors around it, but just a tiny touch pinker.


When it comes to color shifting, there are some differences. Enchanted stays on the purplish side when under fluorescent bulbs. You can see in this pic here (kind of crude but it does the trick) that several of the shades shift to a pale blue while others stay lavender-ish but kind of wash out. This is where you might want to consider what colors you are pairing the lavender with to decide whether you want a blue color shift or not. When in sunlight however, the vivid lavender comes out to play.


Here are some beads I made with Enchanted and Rapunzel, along with Dark Violet, Koala and Mockingbird.







Glass Testing: CiM 462 Chrysalis and 463 Siren

This post starts off the new batch of colors from Creation is Messy for the fall - yey!

On to the first two colors! These two colors seemed to match, so I tested them together.


First up is Chrysalis - which CiM says they formulated as an opaque version of Kryptonite - one of their popular opal colors. The color itself is a pastel minty blue/green. I would say first off that they were only a little bit successful making this an opaque color. Chrysalis can appear more opaque in some circumstances - and this ends up being a tricky thing to do - but a lot of the time it qualifies to me as a dense opal.

Chrysalis does have a nice consistency when melting, though - not too soupy and not too stiff. It behaves like an opal while being worked - going hazy-clear when melted and staying that way for a good amount of time while it cools. When making spacers I was able to get it to go opaque quite easily, but when pulling it into a petal there were spots of opaque and spots of translucence. Because of this color's paleness, this was hard to capture in a photograph.

I did notice that when layering this color, it did stay somewhat opaque when thickly encased and cooled slowly. However, Chrysalis does have a tendency to bleed and feather to various degrees, depending on what you melt it on top of and how thickly you've covered it.

While working with this color, I couldn't find much consistency in how often it would go opaque or stay translucent - it felt kind of random to me. But I imagine that working with it for awhile would enable me to discover a pattern.

The color itself is quite lovely - of a similar tone as Kryptonite. I would love it if Chrysalis was as dense and opaque as Dirty Martini! As it is, I probably won't use this again, because it was so hard to layer.



Next, we have Siren - a transparent shade that was to be a remake of the color Aloe Juice - and for me it's a dead ringer! This is exciting, because Aloe Juice was one of my favorites, and I was sad when they ran out.

Siren is a gorgeous shade of light green with just a hint of teal. I would call it pale teal green. It pretty much has the same simple characteristics as Aloe Juice, which I reviewed here.  It's got great consistency, doesn't bubble or scum or shock, is a nice viscosity, and layers very well.

Siren is just a bit bluer than Appletini and slightly greener than any of the teal shades. It's a great addition to the palette, as there is no similar shade other than the sold-out Aloe Juice.
Aloe Juice on the left, Siren on the right

Here are some beads made with Chrysalis and Siren, along with black, Aloha, Trade Winds and the metallic Electra. More colors to come!








Monday, July 31, 2017

Getting a Lot of Spam Comments, and Other News

Hey everyone - just a quick post to let people know I am turning on the "moderation-all" for comments on this blog. This means that all comments must be approved by me before they are posted. This is because almost all the comments I am getting these days are spam.  If that changes, I will turn off moderation again.

Yes, I know I haven't written in awhile - this summer has been hectic! I've been sick a few times, and haven't had much time to test colors or write blog posts. Luckily I am doing better now, so I am hoping to have some more posts for you soon.

CiM usually comes out with new colors in the fall, so I look forward to new glass to try out and share with you soon. In  the meantime, there are several colors I have played with but haven't written about yet, so you might see those relatively soon.

Have a great summer, all!

Saturday, April 8, 2017

Glass Testing: CiM 551 Prussian Blue & 442 Prairie Grass Ltd. Runs


 New colors today! I have one brand new color in this post and one that was in the batch from last year that I hadn't had a chance to test until now.

First off, we have the new color, called Prussian Blue. This pretty deep opaque color is a kind of midnight blue in the rod, but because it has a lot of silver in it, Prussian Blue is reactive.  When left as a base, uncovered, Prussian Blue is very dark blue with some streaks of greyish green. This is a lot like Class M Planet, which does the same thing but is lighter in tone.

L- Class M Planet, R-Prussian Blue
When you encase or layer Prussian Blue, the blue tones become brighter and the greens all but disappear. This color makes an excellent layering glass if you want some rich midnight, navy or cobalt blues.

Because this is a silver glass, it's not as smooth in consistency (it's slightly bumpy when pulled into stringer), and is slightly stiff, but seems to be able to take a good amount of heat. When left plain, Prussian Blue has lots of striations and streaks - some blue, some grey-green. But that goes away when you encase it.

I had no shocking issues with this color, and it didn't bleed or spread when encased or layered. Using it with a medium or light transparent blue will give you a gorgeous rich midnight blue.

Next we have Prairie Grass, a light opaque spring green that came out late last year. This pretty shade is really close to Elphaba - just a little bit lighter and a little bit more yellow (but not much!). I would say that both these colors can be used as a substitute for each-other.

Prairie Grass is really buttery and nice to work with. It does get striations when left as a base, and can bleed a tiny bit when encased, but not nearly as much as the Effetre greens do. It doesn't seem to spread much at all when layered. This color didn't shock when heated, and had no pitting or boiling issues.

Like most opaque greens, Prairie Grass lightens up a lot when encased in clear, and goes a little more yellowish. I loved using this color with just a bit of Effetre Light Emerald - makes a cheerful spring green.

The beads below were made with Prussian Blue and Prairie Grass, paired with Effetre Light Emerald and Effetre Light Blue.