Thursday, August 24, 2017

Glass Testing: CiM 626 Enchanted and 627 Rapunzel - Plus a Comparison of Lavender Color Shifts!

Next in line for new CiM color tests are two shades of lavender called Enchanted and Rapunzel. Plus, since there are so many shades of lavender glass out these days, I decided to do a couple of comparison shots of the ones I happen to have on hand. Most of these are CiM, with a couple of Effetre thrown in for kicks. This is mostly just to show differences in color shifting, since they all have similar properties. More on that later. First, the newbies!


Rapunzel is the opaque lavender - CiM created this to be an opaque version of their color Crocus, an opal lavender.

Rapunzel is a sweet shade that is just a little bit more pink and a touch brighter than the other opaque lavender CiM has called Heffalump. I would also say that Rapunzel is a touch more dense - meaning it's more opaque and tends to hold it's color without going as "ghostly" as the Heffalump does. We're not approaching the translucence of an opal color yet, but any lavender I have ever worked with is less dense than, say, the chalkiness of the pale opaque greens like Dirty Martini. However, Rapunzel is the densest of any opaque lavender I have worked with.  That makes it really wonderful for layering with transparent purples and pinks!
Left to right - Crocus, Effetre Lavender, Rapunzel

Plain, encased in clear and Enchanted
The consistency of this glass when melting is really nice. No pitting, shocking, or scumming. It also encases quite well without too much bleeding or feathering - and keeps its color under encasing pretty well.

I did notice that when you put a metallic glass on top of Rapunzel and reduce, the lavender reduces a little as well, and you can see a hint of pinkish-greyish haze on the lavender in some places. You can see this in some of the beads below.

Like other lavender shades, Rapunzel will color shift under different kinds of light. Instead of going more bluish like Heffalump and Effetre Lavender, Rapunzel actually washes out a little more on the pink side. In sunlight, the lavender is more pronounced.

I am really happy CiM came out with a more dense lavender - I'll be buying a bunch of this when it comes out - hopefully it's not too terribly expensive!


Next we have the transparent lavender shade Enchanted - another in a long line of very similar shades of lavender! I think for the most part that CiM tries melting the same lavender over and over, and they just get varied levels of saturation and color shifting properties, so they have to use different names for all the variations. That's cool with me - I love every one of them!

For the most part, Enchanted behaves very similarly when melted as its counterparts. A nice viscosity, not much in the way of scumming or bubbling, no shocking, and layers very well.  Not too stiff, either, which is very nice!

Enchanted sits pretty much in the middle when it comes to saturation. Here's a pic of the lavenders I have on hand, under reveal bulbs that show true color. (Some of these are discontinued colors, fyi.)You can see that Enchanted is about the same saturation as the colors around it, but just a tiny touch pinker.


When it comes to color shifting, there are some differences. Enchanted stays on the purplish side when under fluorescent bulbs. You can see in this pic here (kind of crude but it does the trick) that several of the shades shift to a pale blue while others stay lavender-ish but kind of wash out. This is where you might want to consider what colors you are pairing the lavender with to decide whether you want a blue color shift or not. When in sunlight however, the vivid lavender comes out to play.


Here are some beads I made with Enchanted and Rapunzel, along with Dark Violet, Koala and Mockingbird.







Glass Testing: CiM 462 Chrysalis and 463 Siren

This post starts off the new batch of colors from Creation is Messy for the fall - yey!

On to the first two colors! These two colors seemed to match, so I tested them together.


First up is Chrysalis - which CiM says they formulated as an opaque version of Kryptonite - one of their popular opal colors. The color itself is a pastel minty blue/green. I would say first off that they were only a little bit successful making this an opaque color. Chrysalis can appear more opaque in some circumstances - and this ends up being a tricky thing to do - but a lot of the time it qualifies to me as a dense opal.

Chrysalis does have a nice consistency when melting, though - not too soupy and not too stiff. It behaves like an opal while being worked - going hazy-clear when melted and staying that way for a good amount of time while it cools. When making spacers I was able to get it to go opaque quite easily, but when pulling it into a petal there were spots of opaque and spots of translucence. Because of this color's paleness, this was hard to capture in a photograph.

I did notice that when layering this color, it did stay somewhat opaque when thickly encased and cooled slowly. However, Chrysalis does have a tendency to bleed and feather to various degrees, depending on what you melt it on top of and how thickly you've covered it.

While working with this color, I couldn't find much consistency in how often it would go opaque or stay translucent - it felt kind of random to me. But I imagine that working with it for awhile would enable me to discover a pattern.

The color itself is quite lovely - of a similar tone as Kryptonite. I would love it if Chrysalis was as dense and opaque as Dirty Martini! As it is, I probably won't use this again, because it was so hard to layer.



Next, we have Siren - a transparent shade that was to be a remake of the color Aloe Juice - and for me it's a dead ringer! This is exciting, because Aloe Juice was one of my favorites, and I was sad when they ran out.

Siren is a gorgeous shade of light green with just a hint of teal. I would call it pale teal green. It pretty much has the same simple characteristics as Aloe Juice, which I reviewed here.  It's got great consistency, doesn't bubble or scum or shock, is a nice viscosity, and layers very well.

Siren is just a bit bluer than Appletini and slightly greener than any of the teal shades. It's a great addition to the palette, as there is no similar shade other than the sold-out Aloe Juice.
Aloe Juice on the left, Siren on the right

Here are some beads made with Chrysalis and Siren, along with black, Aloha, Trade Winds and the metallic Electra. More colors to come!








Monday, July 31, 2017

Getting a Lot of Spam Comments, and Other News

Hey everyone - just a quick post to let people know I am turning on the "moderation-all" for comments on this blog. This means that all comments must be approved by me before they are posted. This is because almost all the comments I am getting these days are spam.  If that changes, I will turn off moderation again.

Yes, I know I haven't written in awhile - this summer has been hectic! I've been sick a few times, and haven't had much time to test colors or write blog posts. Luckily I am doing better now, so I am hoping to have some more posts for you soon.

CiM usually comes out with new colors in the fall, so I look forward to new glass to try out and share with you soon. In  the meantime, there are several colors I have played with but haven't written about yet, so you might see those relatively soon.

Have a great summer, all!

Saturday, April 8, 2017

Glass Testing: CiM 551 Prussian Blue & 442 Prairie Grass Ltd. Runs


 New colors today! I have one brand new color in this post and one that was in the batch from last year that I hadn't had a chance to test until now.

First off, we have the new color, called Prussian Blue. This pretty deep opaque color is a kind of midnight blue in the rod, but because it has a lot of silver in it, Prussian Blue is reactive.  When left as a base, uncovered, Prussian Blue is very dark blue with some streaks of greyish green. This is a lot like Class M Planet, which does the same thing but is lighter in tone.

L- Class M Planet, R-Prussian Blue
When you encase or layer Prussian Blue, the blue tones become brighter and the greens all but disappear. This color makes an excellent layering glass if you want some rich midnight, navy or cobalt blues.

Because this is a silver glass, it's not as smooth in consistency (it's slightly bumpy when pulled into stringer), and is slightly stiff, but seems to be able to take a good amount of heat. When left plain, Prussian Blue has lots of striations and streaks - some blue, some grey-green. But that goes away when you encase it.

I had no shocking issues with this color, and it didn't bleed or spread when encased or layered. Using it with a medium or light transparent blue will give you a gorgeous rich midnight blue.

Next we have Prairie Grass, a light opaque spring green that came out late last year. This pretty shade is really close to Elphaba - just a little bit lighter and a little bit more yellow (but not much!). I would say that both these colors can be used as a substitute for each-other.

Prairie Grass is really buttery and nice to work with. It does get striations when left as a base, and can bleed a tiny bit when encased, but not nearly as much as the Effetre greens do. It doesn't seem to spread much at all when layered. This color didn't shock when heated, and had no pitting or boiling issues.

Like most opaque greens, Prairie Grass lightens up a lot when encased in clear, and goes a little more yellowish. I loved using this color with just a bit of Effetre Light Emerald - makes a cheerful spring green.

The beads below were made with Prussian Blue and Prairie Grass, paired with Effetre Light Emerald and Effetre Light Blue.












Friday, March 24, 2017

Glass Testing: CiM 824 Pachyderm Ltd. Run

One more color for today - a soft shade of grey-ish tan called Pachyderm. As a rod, this glass looks like a medium grey. When melted it lightens and warms up into a sort of fawn grey - not completely brown and not completely grey. The CiM page says Pachyderm contains a lot of silver, but I didn't notice that when I used it, since I didn't test it with any other silver glass.

Pachyderm does tend to strike softly as you work it, warming up a little more the longer it's worked. They grey spots seem to disappear after a short while, leaving it a light tan.

I had no problems with shocking, pitting, spreading or bleeding. It does get somewhat streaky as you melt it in.

I paired Pachyderm with Eventide (a light neutral grey) to keep it from going too brown. It makes pretty encased stringer, but you can see where the Pachyderm tends to strike in some spots lighter than others, so the color is kind of spotty. Which can be lovely when used in organic and nature-based designs. I think this color would be fantastic as a sculptural glass for animals and skin tones as well as anything food-related. 

In the beads below, Pachyderm and Eventide are used alongside pinks and a little black for contrast. The beige quality of Pachyderm really shows up well next to black.

More colors to come soon!